Shoe



. April 16,v 1946. c. H. DANIELS SHOE Filed May 19, 1942 2Sheetsh-s'heet 1 OO.' 000.9: 0000006. u

April 16, 1946.

C.y H pANlELs SHOE 2 Sheets-Sheet 2' Filed May 19, 1942 o ooooooo/00000009 \00ooooo/' odo coco o/ ooooooooo, A .0000000000:0 6 WM.ooo0oooooo. 6 .oooooo.. .0. .oomk ooonwnwnw oooboo 000000 OO O 6. 5@ooo 6 .o afm M f M Patented Apr. 16, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICESHOE g Claude H. Daniels, Greenwich, `Conn. Application May 19, 1942,Serial No. 443,554 Y 4 Claims. (Cl. lz-lii) This invention relates toimprovements in shoes and more particularly to improvements inthe'cuttingand assembling of the parts of a shoe upper. Y f

In the manufacture -of various types of shoes it is customary practiceto cut the upper leather.

stock in more than one piece. 'I'his method is advantageous, because itis more economical to cut smaller pieces rather than large pieces fromthe leather skins, and where the upper is made of parts of contrastingcolors the parts must be cut separately. The liningiis usually cut inpieces conforming in shape to the pieces `of the upper.

In the manufacture of ventilated or perforated shoes Where theperforating is carried out over the entire area of the upper, the partsof the upper are usually assembled and secured together in the at sothat the flat upper or upper part may be passed through the perforatingmachine. In cer-tain styles of shoes it is desired to have theperforations extend over the entire area of certain parts of the upperWhile other parts of the upper are left unperforated. For example, itmay .be desired that the saddle portion, the toe cap or the mudguard beleft unperforated while the remainder of the upper is perforated overits entire'area. This usually requires making the upper and lining inseparate parts Which must be stitched or otherwise secured togetherafter certain parts have been perforated .over their entire areas. Whenthe .lining is made in more than one piece the edges are usually lappedand seamed together. Y

An object of the present invention is to eliminate the lapped seams ofthe lining-on the inside of the vshoe and thereby make the shoe morecomiortable to the foot by cutting the lining for the shoe upper or aportion of the area of the upper in one piece while the outer layer ofthe shoe upper which covers the same area .is cut in vmore than onepiece.

It is further an object of my invention to make a shoe upper by cuttinga lining piece, cementing certain ,parts of the outer layer on thelining piece in the at `leaving exposed and uncovered Vcertain portionsvof' the .lining piece and thereafter, after perforating if desired thepartially assembled upper in the iiat, attaching 'other parts of theouter layer to cover the exposed portion of the vlining piece, lsaidparts being lsecured to the marginal edges o'f the vcemented parts.

Further objects and advantages of my improvements will be more readilyapparent 'from the. following description of preferred embodi- 55 i0Onlyfone edeoithe upper.;

mentsof my invention as disclosed in the attached drawingain which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe of the saddle type;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a shoe of the mud-guard type;

Fig. 3v is a plan view of the assembled `upper for the shoe shown inFig. 1; 4 Y

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary plan view, partially in broken section, showingthe upper ci Fig. 3 before the saddle is applied;

Fig. 5 is a plan viewl :of the assembled-upper for the shoe vdisclosed`in Fig. 2 `withgpartof the mud-guardbroken away .and theV bindingapplied Fie. 6leavingw, simi1ar-to,Fig. 5 but Ashowing a modiglil:ation;V i,

Fig. 7 is a Vsectional View taken on'the plane indicated 1-1 in Fig. 3;Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated 8--8 in Fig. 3;

Fig. 9 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated 9-9 in Fig. 3;

Fig. .10 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated 'ID-l 0 inFig. 5;

Fig. l11 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated] I-Ii inEig; AFig, 12 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated l 2--1 2 'inFig. 6; and

'Fig 13 is a sectional View taken on `the plane indicated l3-l3 inFig.6.

` The shoe of Fig. 1 includes the forepart lll, rthe saddle l2 and thequarter 14. In making this vshoe the upper lining lB` is cut to theshape disclosed in Fig-j. 'It is customary to apply a toe `stiifenerIB'and a counter stiffener which, in the present example, is made inseparate pieces 20. These'stiffener parts I8 .and 20 may be cementedtothe top side of the lining I6 in the proper position. If desired thelining could be cut off at the toe 'and the toe stiliener stitchedthereto. TheforepartZZ vof theouter layer of the shoe upper is cut 'tothe shape indicated in Fig. 4 and is cemented 'in position as shown. Theforepart 22 extends `rearwardly beyond 'the toe stiffener. The separateparts 2l `of 'the quarter ,I4 are cut 'fromv upper leather stock andcemented in position 'as shown 'in Fig- 4. These quarter parts 24 extendforwardly beyond the counter stiiiener pieces 20. It will be noted `fromFig. 4 that the iorepart '22 and the 'quarter parts 24 whencemented 'inposition are spaced apart with respect to each vother leaving an exposedarea of the lining Ivvhich must "be covered by applying the sad- 'die LU v The parts of the upper before the saddle is applied are flat and, ifdesired, the iiat vamp may be perforated over its entire area asindicated by the perforations 26. The perforations extend through threelayers at the toe, the outer layer 22, the toe stiffener I8, and thelining I6. Immediately at the rear of the toe stitfener the perforationsextend through the two layers of the outer layer 22 and the lining I6.The lining I6 only would be perforated in theV space between the parts22 and 24... At the quarterarea the perforations extend through thethree layers of the guard strips are not adhesively secured to thelining layer.

The upper blank disclosed in Fig. 6 is somewhat similar to the blank ofFig. 5 except that the vamp is cut separately from the quarter and themud-guard does not extend through the quarter area of the shoe. Thelining 68 is cut the same as the lining 54 in Fig. 5. The outer layer iscut in three separate pieces comprising the vamp 'I0 and the separatequarter sections 12. Suitable quarter stiie'ner .sectionsfanda toestitfener may quarter section 24, the counter stiiener and the liningI6.

After perforating the vamp, or without perfo-I4 rating if perforationsare not desired, the saddle I 2 is then applied. The saddle is cut tothe shape indicated in Fig. 3 and is placed in position so as to overlapthe marginal edges of the forepart 22 and the quarter parts 24. Thesaddle is then stitched in position by the line of stitching 28 whichpasses through the lthree layers of the marginal edge of the saddleV I2,the marginal edge of the forepart 22 and the lining I6; and the lineofstitching 30 which passes through the rear marginal edge of the saddleI2, the forward marginal edges of the quarter section 24 and through thelining layer I6. The saddle is not adhesively secured to the lining I6..

As shown in Fig. 7, the rear marginal edge 32 of the layer 22 is skivedto a'. thin edge while thc forward marginal edges of thequarter section24 and counter section 20 aresirnilarly skived to thin edges asindicated at v34 and 36 in Fig. V'1.

The upper is closed byebringing'togetherthe rear edges 38 of the quartersections of the Vvamp and applying the back-stay 40. The binding 42 maythen be applied over the top edges of the quarter I4 and secured by aline of stitching 44 as shown in Fig. 8. This line of stitching passesthrough the marginal edge of the quarter section 24, the skived edge ofthe counter 20 and the marginal edge of the lining I6. y

By this method of construction the shoe has a smooth continuous liningwhich is preferable to the usual method of construction in which thelining is made in several parts with lapped seams. Further, if it isdesired to have thejshoe perforated as shown in Fig. 1, it is' much moreconvenient to carry out the perforating of the forepart and quarterwhile 'they are attached together rather than in separatevpieces.

The shoe displayed in Fig. 2 isrof the mudguard type and ismade with acontinuous lining similar to the shoe in Fig. 1. In Fig. 2 the upper"generally is indicated and the mud-guard around the bottom of the upperis indicated 52. Fig. 5 illustrates the manner of making the upper forthe shoe of Fig. 2. The lining 54 is made of one piece cutas shown inFig. 5. The outer layer k' 55 of the upper is'rcut smaller thanthelining 54. The customary counter stiffener sections 58 and a toestiffener 60 may be cemented in position between the lining 54 and 'theouter layer 56..V The layers 54 and 56 are otherwise adhesively securedto each other throughouttheir contacting surlfaces. vIf itis desired tomake a ventilated shoe,

Ytheiiat upper blank may then 'be perforated be applied in the samemanner as in Fig. 5. Be-

' fore applying the outer layer pieces I0 and '12, it

is preferred to secure the parts together after the edges have beenbrought into abutment such as bythe zig-zag stitching 14. This willinsure that the quarter portions will be in the correct position withrespect to the vamp when the stitched together pieces are laid upon andcemented to the lining. I'he flat upper blank may then be perforated ifdesired before applying the mudguardy strip 'I6 which is stitched to themarginal edge of the vamp 'I0 by the line of stitching '18. The abuttingedges of the vamp 'I0 and quarter section I2 and the stitching 'I4 arecovered by suitable stay' strips 80. y n

In all the uppersdisclosed the lining is in one piece while the outerlayer of upper leather stock covering the lining piece is made inseveral parts, and if the shoe is perforated the -perforations do notextend through certain parts of the outer layer which are stitched inposition after perforating the iiat cemented layers of thek partiallyAlthough I have shown the lining for the entire shoevamp cut in onepiece, it should be understood that certain advantages of myimprovements will result if the lining is'cut in more than one pieceprovided that the piecesof lining are less in number than the pieces ofthe upper leather stock which cover the-lining. For example, the uppercould be cut in separate vamp and quarter sections, the lining for thevamp section being inone piece while the upper leather stock whichcovers the vamp liningv is cut in several pieces.

I claim:

l.' In a method 'of making an upper for a shoe in which only a portionof the upper varea is perforated, the steps which consist in cutting a50 lining layer in one piece, adhesively securing to throughout itsentire area as indicated by the Derforations 62 in Fig. 5. The upper maythen be i'lnished by applying themud-guard -strips 64 which are laidover the exposed margin of the lining 54 and overlap the marginal edgeof .the

Vouter layer 56. These strips'64 may be secured in position by the uneof stitching es. The mua- 7 said lining layer in the at sectionsofruppei leather Vstock so as to cover only a portion of the liningarea, then perforating the adhesively securedrlayers'of the lining andthe upper leather sections overv the entire area thereof, then placing apiece of unperforated upper leather stock in position to cover theportion of the lining area which is not covered by the perforated upperleather. stockv sections, said piece of upper leather overlappingmarginal edges of the upper leather stock sections, and stitching saidpiece of -unperforated upper leather stock in position.

2. In a method of making a mud-guard type of yshoe in which the upperofthe shoe is perforated over its entirearea except for the mud-guard,the steps which consist in cutting a one-piece lining layer, cuttingupper leather stock to-form the parts of theA outer layer with theforepart oi said outer layer narrower in width than the forepart ofthelining layer,` adhesively'securing said outer layer to the lininglayer inthe flat whereby a marginal portion of said lining layer at theforepart will remain uncoveredv by said outer layer, perforatingl saidassembled lining and outer layers in the flat over the entire area andthen attaching a mud-guard strip by stitching the mud-guard strip to themarginal edge of the forepart of the outer layer and to the lining layerwhereby said mud-guard strip covers the perforations in the marginalportion of said lining layer.

3. In the method of making a saddle type shoe which is ventilated in thetoe and quarter sections but not in the saddle portion, the steps whichinclude cutting out a one-piece lining and securing to the liningsuitable toe and quarter stiffenei sections, a forepart section andquarter sections While leaving exposed portions of the liningintermediate the forepart and quarter sections, then perforating theassembly throughout the entire area while in the at, and finallysecuring an unperforated saddle piece in position over the exposedperforated area of the lining, the saddle piece being arranged tooverlap the opposed marginal edges of the forepart and quarter sections.

- 4.4 In the method of making a complete shoe upper which is only partlyventilated the steps which consist in, cutting out a one-piece lining,securing to the lining a partial outer layer of upper leather stockwhile leaving exposed part of the area of the lining, then perforatingthe assembly throughout the entire area while in the flat and nallysecuring an imperforate piece of upper leather stock in position overthe exposed perforated area of the lining, said piece being arranged tooverlap the adjoining marginal edge portions of the perforate outerlayer.

CLAUDE H. DANEIS.

